Discover one of Europe’s most underrated wine regions

Hungary’s historic wine region is undergoing a flavourful renaissance

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THE AIR GROWS cooler as you navigate through an underground warren of centuries-old tunnels. The only light is the flickering glow of a candle up ahead. You’d be forgiven for thinking you were exploring the caves of Burgundy. Instead, you’re in the heart of Tokaj, a Hungarian wine region 240 kilometres northeast of Budapest.

Using the map you were given in the modern Holdvölgy winery overhead, you emerge in a dimly lit cellar, where an upturned barrel holds a bottle of tantalising amber liquid and several glasses. It’s time to taste Tokaji wine. Ancient volcanic soils, a mild climate, and the confluence of two rivers create ideal growing conditions for Botrytis cinerea, the “noble rot” that concentrates sugar within grapes; all combine to produce uniquely sweet and structured wine.

Tokaj’s wines were historically prized throughout Europe, and declared the “wine of kings, king of wines” by Louis XIV. But a Phylloxera outbreak, two world wars, and nationalisation of the wine industry left the elixir largely forgotten by the end of the 20th century. In the past two decades, enterprising winemakers have put Tokaj back on the map. Today visitors can sample not only the classic Aszú-style sweet wines but also tongue-tingling dry whites like Furmint and Hárslevelu, savoury signals of this historic region’s exciting outlook.

Where to sleep

A former winemaking school has been grandly refurbished as Gróf Degenfeld Castle Hotel. The Andrássy Rezidencia Wine & Spa makes its home in an 18th-century baroque manor house.

Wine aging to perfection at Tokaj Oremus winery.
PHOTOGRAPH BY AGOSTINO PACCIANI, ANZENBERGER/ REDUX

Where to taste

In the village of Mád, find landmark cellars, including the Royal Tokaji Wine Company and István Szepsy.

How to travel

Companies such as Wine a’More can arrange drivers, access to smaller wineries, and activities like vineyard tours by bike.

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